Gavi wine, what is it, where is it from?
/by: Alexa
Gavi village has an interesting history (here to read more about it) and even more interesting food and wine culture! The position near the border with Liguria influenced a lot the culinary tradition and the proximity with the Mediterranean Sea is crucial for the unique expression of the Cortese grape in this area.
Gavi is placed in the extreme southern corner of Piedmont, where the plain meets the Apennines mountains. Because of this formation, the terroir is unique and from a geological point of view, it could be divided in three areas:
The red soils originated from the iron rich clay of ancient alluvial deposits. These are located north of Gavi town, where the hills are gentler and the vineyards alternate with oak and acacia trees.
The central strip that sees an alternation of marl and sandstone.
The southern part that is the steepest due to the meeting with the Apennine mountains. This part is composed of white clay and marl. Here it’s possible to find many fossils, because of the marine origin of the soil.
Gavi DOCG is a white wine also known as Cortese di Gavi, because it’s produced with 100% Cortese grape, which is native to this area and is typically grown in the province of Alessandria and in Tortona. Cortese is first recognized as a grape for vinification in a letter dated 1659. This does not mean that it wasn’t already used at those times, but probably not known by the name Cortese.
The grape has typically a thin golden-yellow skin and natural high acidity, that is well balanced in the wines thanks to the climate of the area and the influence of the Ligurian sea.
Gavi was the second DOCG of Italy and was acknowledged in 1974. The denomination includes the territories of eleven municipalities in the province of Alessandria and it refers to four types of white wine: still, sparkling, spumante and riserva. Since all four of them are 100% Cortese grapes, they have some characteristics in common:
Color: it’s light straw yellow with greenish reflections.
Aroma: in the nose you can sense notes of white fruits, citrus and then the minerality that comes from the soil composition, especially for the wines that are coming from the southern part of the territory.
Taste: in the mouth it is dry and fresh. It’s a full and elegant wine.
To produce a Gavi Riserva, the wine needs to age for at least a year, in which at least six months in the bottle. While for the Gavi Spumante Riserva it needs to age for two years, in which at least eighteen months on the yeast in bottle.
In the end we can say that Gavi's position was not strategic only for the people, but also for the wine. The breeze that comes from the Ligurian sea meets here the snowy wind from the mountains. This climate is unique and enhances the natural characteristics of Cortese grapes, resulting in a top-quality wine.
Gavi village is also considered by some as the original place of birth of ravioli, the typical stuffed pasta that is possible to find in many forms all over Piedmont. Though, according to the legend, ravioli were invented between the XII and XIII century here in Gavi by the family Raviolo, who runned an Inn along the ancient Via Postumia.
All the people and the merchants who were passing through Gavi, stopped at Sir Raviolo Inn. Of course, they would arrive tired after a long journey, but thanks to this particular dish they refilled their energies. Sir Raviolo was the inventor of a tool to stuff these little dumplings of thin pasta. He created a fill with aromatic herbs, eggs and goat cheese. After this meal, the travelers were regenerated and ready to hit the road again.
Of course, during the centuries the recipe changed, following the taste of the times, but the official one is preserved by the Ordine Obertengo dei Cavalieri del Raviolo e del Gavi. It’s an order of knights that, for over 40 years, is devoted to the promotion of the local ravioli, the Gavi white wine and the food culture of the area.
Nowadays, the fill of the ravioli is traditionally made with beef, pork, eggs, cheese, borage and escarole. There are four ways of serving them: “al tocco” a meat sauce influenced by Genoa; in a bowl with broth; in a bowl with red wine; “a culo nudo”, that means “butt naked”. For the last one, the ravioli are drained and put in a napkin without condiments, only the upper part is sprinkled with parmesan cheese, leaving the lower part, the butt, naked.
In general, the proximity to the Liguria region influenced the culinary tradition of the area. It is reflected not only by the use of pesto as a typical sauce for the local pasta and the “al tocco'' meat sauce for the ravioli, but also by the preparation of “focacce” and “farinate”, that are traditionally from Genoa.
Another peculiar dish, that is also a Slow Food presidium, is the “testa in cassetta”, it’s a cold cut terrine made from pig’s head, tongue, muscle and heart, that is possible to find both in Liguria and in the Gavi area.
As for desserts, this town is famous for the “amaretti”, little macarons made with almond flour, egg whites, sugar and honey. The bitter taste given by the almonds is well balanced by the sweetness of the honey.
Last but not least, the area is also internationally known for the artisan chocolate tradition, of which Novi Ligure is the most famous producer.