Easy Breezy Brezza

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Brezza Giacomo e figli Barolo 2003 Cannubi

Not many people can say that they get to work by the side of an important wine maker. I can. I have been working with Enzo Brezza and his family for the past 4 years, and I can say that I have learned a LOT. It has been an honor to watch first hand the thought and detail that goes into every bottle, be able to taste frequently from the barrel, put in my opinion and help out whenever needed. It also has been wonderful to get all the secrets and hear the stories and unwritten history about Langhe. These stories I will fill you in on later posts.

Brezza is for sure arm wrestling with whom is the oldest winery in the town of Barolo. They might not be the first, but they are one that holds quite a bit of history for themselves. 

Enzo the 4th generation winemaker, tho he had hopes one day to become a pilot was brought back to the ground when he took over the family business from his father Oreste in the 1980’s. Oreste, Enzo’s farther is know far and wide for his wit and Cavalier mustache taken from the antique pictures you will see hanging on the walls in the castle of Barolo representing the time of the Savoy family. There is some fierce competition of who has the better stache. One of his famous quotes when asked how long you can age a Barolo for? The reply at 84 “I’ll let you know when I’m dead.” He still drinks two glasses a day and does not look a day over 62. 

Today Brezza holds some of Barolo’s most sought after crus and displays a great deal of the importance of terroir in their wines. You can sit down to a tasting and taste their 3 Barolo cru, all made in the same way and feel and get pick up the subtle nuances of each of the vineyards. This is where the Langhe soils get interesting, you have 3 vineyards right next to each other and you get 3 different wines. 

Cannubi is probably the most famous MGA (menzioni geografiche aggiuntive) in the Langhe. This is likely because it has the most history, it could actually be the first planted vineyard in Barolo. The name on paper dates back to a bottle of Nebbiolo coming from Cannubi (Cannubio) in 1752. This is 100 years before the name of Barolo (not the town but the wine). So that means that the farmers and locals knew that Cannubi was something special. Was it the positioning? Could be because Nebbiolo a very hard grape to grow due to it’s long ripening season ripened much better on this hill. It is the first one to bud and the last one to be picked, and back in those days the contadini (farmers) were harvesting their Nebbiolo in November. Today for example we harvest more in October. The soil in Cannubi is made up of Sant’Agata Fossil Marl and Diano Sandstone, these soil structures are very poor and thus making it wonderful for grape production.

The 2003 vintage was a record breaker of all sorts. It was one of the hottest vintages in all time. You ask why on earth would I be interested to taste a hot vintage wine one you would think is not meant for ageing and now being 15 years old? Because even in the toughest vintages great winemakers will stand out. It is a sink or swim vintage and I think that Brezza Cannubi 2003 is still fresh and lively. Never judge a wine by it’s vintage, and here on the nose it is like to walk into a pastry shop. The sweetness of powdered sugar and candied fruit are in the air. You still have the nuances of violets and rose. On the pallet the finish almost never ends. Tobacco, chocolate, and dried orange peel yet it is fresh, the acidity is vibrant and it does not seem tiered it still has the potential for another 10 years. Cannot wait to taste it then.

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