Mount Etna Wine Tasting - What you need to know before you go
/by Amanda
How to get to Etna volcano wine region:
The nearest airport is Catania airport - with a 45 minute drive you can be in the mount Etna wine country area. To drive from the north versante nord of the area to the south versante sud can take about a one hour by car, as there are many windy backroads, and there is only one highway that travels from Taormina to Catania the A18.
Before we get started on the important wine tasting information, one thing to keep in mind when visiting the Mount Etna wine region is that transportation in this area is not very easy. If going wine tasting on Etna volcano, you should know that the wineries themselves are not close to one another and a car or driver is highly recommended. One note if driving by yourself in the Sicilian wine regions, that navigation is not always easiest and a driver or guide in the area is highly recommended. Not to say that it cannot be done, it can be done leaving in some time to get lost, but also to keep in mind that drinking and driving can be dangerous.
One more thing to keep in mind when visiting the Etna volcano wine country is that appointments are mandatory to visit the wineries and to meet the producers. The cellar doors are not open the public and each winery asks a tasting fee. On the flip side almost every visit will have plentiful amounts of wines to taste as well as many typical food product to pair with the wines.
Here are the 3 major Etna wine region grape varieties.
- Nerello Mascalese : locally called Niureddu, Nerello Mascalese is the most dominate varietal in the Etna Rosso category. Its origins coming from the town of Mascali where the name derives from. What makes this wine grape so good, one reason is the abundance of pre-phylloxera vines that can be found on the volcanic slopes of mount Etna. Also when this grape is blended with that of Nerello Cappuccio which is typical in Etna Rosso IGT and DOC. These two grapes compliment each other. Where Nerello Mascalese is low in color and high in tannin, Nerello Cappuccio has lots of color and is low in tannin. Thus giving a great balance to these wines.
- Nerello Cappuccio : the names given to this grape are derived from the varietals appearance. Cappuccio (cap in Italian) was given by the grapes canopy resembling a cap that covers the bunches of grapes. While this grape is most commonly blended with Nerello Mascalese, there are a few examples that uses this varietal on its own.
Fun Fact: The Etna denomination DOC is 80% Nerello Mascalese and 20% Nerello Cappuccio
- Carricante : coming from the word caricare in Italian (meaning loading up), when left to fend for itself, the Carricante varietal will produce enormous amounts of grapes. Enough to load up cart or the donkeys. While Carricante is a vigorous grape variety, it is known to make some of Etna’s most complex white wines. Rich in minerals, sturdy acidity, theses wines can be long lived.
Fun Fact: Where nothing else grows, Carricante thrives. This variety will be planted on the highest slopes of mount Etna or in the valleys where the soils are the hardest and poorest. The more the grapes struggle, the better the wines. ;)
The other mount Etna wine grapes:
Minnella Bianca (Minnella Nera) : Minella Bianca is now a rare variety grown almost solely on the slopes of mount Etna. The name coming from the Italian word minna (female breast in English) as the berries themselves resemble very much is anatomic part. A low acid variety typically used for blending, however there has been some attempted vintages where this varietal has been vilified on its own and the results were quite pleasing.
Important wine growing municipalities are:
1.Castiglione Sicilia
Where to wine taste : Monteleone
What to do : Dinner at Vitis Vineria
2. Randazzo
Where to wine taste : La Calabretta
What to do : Aperitivo at Il Buongustaio Pippo, it will be a lot of food, wine, and fun!
3. Zafferana Etna
Where to wine taste : Guido Coffa
What to do : Stay at Monaci delle Terre Nere in one of their restored ancient Palmento
4. Linguaglossa
Where to wine taste : Vivera
What to do : taste the typical Sicilian cookies at Pasticceria L’Alhambra
5. Milo
Where to wine taste : I Vigneri di Salvo Foti
What to do : grab a bite at Quattro Archi Osteria Pizzeria
There are a few places that have the expertise, wines, and passion to walk you through an in-depth wine tasting, talking about the different contrada, altitude, exposure, and winemaking process.
Enoteca Buongustaio : Here you will be greeted by Pippo and his children who will take you on a wonderful wine and food filled journey, that you don’t even have to leave your seat for. They have a great selection of all the producers on the Etna volcano, from the smaller ones to the more famous names.
Vitis Vineria Bottega : Make sure to make a reservation as this place is tiny with only 4 tables. If you are lucky enough to grab a seat, make sure you save room for lots of wine and make sure to order the charcuterie board.